Bargain Bite

San Francisco Chronicle

Thursday, January 25, 2007

The name denotes the fare at this tiny San Rafael spot, but falafel isn't the only thing that gets top billing.

A small deli counter, stocked with colorful Middle Eastern salads and bowls of creamy hummus, takes up the majority of the bare-bones space. Try these specialties in the house combo plate ($9.25), piled high with domes of bright tabbouleh salad, dolmas and other spreads.

Beef and lamb shawerma ($6.95), glistening on a spit behind the counter, comes tucked into toasty lavash bread. Try the chicken version ($6.95) as well, redolent with flavors of cinnamon and allspice.

Insiders know to ask for the fresh-baked pita, which is delivered throughout the week. It's thick and doughy, and it pairs well with the garlic, mint and yogurt salad (half-pint $3.75). The bread doesn't split open, so the falafel ($5.50/$5.95) comes packed into a thinner version. It's pumped up with roasted eggplant, potatoes and rich baba ghanoush.

Although there is sidewalk seating if the weather permits, only six tables fit inside, so takeout is the wise choice.

Vitals: 1109 Fourth St. (near A Street), San Rafael; (415) 259-0440. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat., until 7 p.m. Sun. No alcohol or reservations. Credit cards accepted.

Amanda Gold, agold@sfchronicle.com