Falafel Hut Makes Authentic Middle Eastern Specialities

Marin Independent Journal

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Where to go: Falafel joints with a range of tangy Middle Eastern foods are hard to find in Marin. Falafel Hut, which opened in May across from the Rafael Film Center in downtown San Rafael, may be the only one of its kind here. The young eatery is mostly aimed at takeout business.

Inside: Formerly an Orange Julius/Dairy Queen store, the small space is commercial-looking - clearly more about food than style. It's dominated by a glass display case presenting glisteningly fresh-looking spreads and salads made in-house. Another case holds assorted savory pastries.

There are four tables inside and another four more on the sidewalk (these are the nicest place to sit, weather permitting). On a recent visit, a flat-screen television over the check-out counter broadcast the World Cup final in Arabic.

What to order: Beef and lamb shawerma, thin slices of marinated meat rolled up in a papery-white flatbread with lettuce, tomato, a tangy yogurt-based sauce, red onions and sumac, is a delicious wrap-style sandwich, even if the meat is less about juice than it is about flavor. Falafel, made from scratch in-house and served either in pita bread or as part of a vegetarian plate (my preference), had a heavy texture, dense crust from deep-frying along with earthy flavor. With time, I suspect these imbalances of texture versus taste will even out.

The vegetarian plate also included sprightly parsley-dense tabbouleh, delicate baba ghanoush, a dense, workmanlike hummus, two rice-stuffed grape leaves and a chunk of feta cheese.

The savory pastries were interesting and different. One was a large round of flat yeasted dough painted with a thin layer of ground beef, lamb and finely chopped tomatoes. Spinach and onions, cooked into a dark-green paste, filled large triangles or pretzel-like twists. A thin layer of feta cheese and confettied vegetables were wrapped in football-shaped pastry, as was a fourth version, with chopped chicken. When you order, these are heated so the pastry retains its crispness.

At the lunch: Even though it's new, the central location and interesting food are already drawing customers. The atmosphere is functional, so it's not a spot for a lingering lunch, but it's worth a stop for fresh, solid, unusual fare. Order at a counter and food is brought to you when ready.

Directions and parking: Take the Central San Rafael exit on Highway 101, go west on Fourth Street. Metered street or nearby lot parking.

Falafel Hut
Cuisine: Middle Eastern
Address: 1109 Fourth St., San Rafael
Phone: 259-0440
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays
Cost: Inexpensive; everything under $10
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard
Service: Order at counter

Leslie Harlib can be reached at lharlib@marinij.com.